Techniques #1 : Coudre de la soie, l’exemple d’une chemise

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Avec le temps et la pratique, je commence à coudre un peu mieux. Je sais qu’il me reste encore tant et tant à apprendre…mais le peu que j’ai déjà compris, j’ai envie de le partager avec vous. C’est la première raison qui m’a poussée à ouvrir cet espace et j’espère trouver le temps d’écrire de plus en plus d’articles dans le style de celui qui va suivre. N’hésitez pas à me dire si cela vous plaît, à rectifier mes erreurs, à partager vos astuces, cela m’aidera beaucoup à progresser et à rendre ce blog le plus utile possible.

J’en profite pour vous dire que la suite de la série sur les tissus avance et que je devrais bientôt pouvoir mettre en ligne la suite. Je sais que je vous l’ai promise il y a quelques mois déjà mais je ne regrette pas d’avoir pris le temps de bien me documenter. J’ai hâte de tout vous raconter.

Du reste, le billet du jour s’inscrit aussi mon envie de comprendre de mieux en mieux les matières avec lesquelles je couds. Disons qu’il s’agit de la partie pratique de mon apprentissage de la soie. Comme beaucoup d’entre nous (les couturières et couturiers amateurs), je voue un culte plein d’effroi à cette étoffe si noble, notamment quand elle se présente dans sa forme la plus fluide et la plus fine…je frissonne avec émerveillement devant un crêpe de chine ou une mousseline.

Quand j’ai aperçu ce Liberty « Floral Eve » -dont j’adorais le motif- dans une version en soie crêpe de Chine chez Supercut (cette mercerie en ligne italienne livre en France en 48 heures), je n’ai pas hésité. Pour ne rien vous cacher, j’ai pris le dernier coupon dans ce modèle….mais surveillez les arrivages, il y a souvent de très jolies étoffes de l’autre côté des Alpes et le prix est vraiment intéressant (j’ai trouvé ce Liberty 50% moins cher que le prix habituel des Liberty en crêpe de Chine).

J’avais pour projet d’en faire une chemise mais quand j’ai reçu mon beau coupon, j’ai immédiatement été rattrapée par mes vieilles terreurs : le crêpe était splendide mais bien trop vivant pour moi. Malgré les conseils de Carmen ici et par le biais d’Instagram, je n’arrivais pas à surmonter mes peurs et à me lancer…jusqu’à ce que Marie me demande de tester son nouveau patron de chemise. La coupe cintrée du dessin technique était justement celle que j’attendais pour me lancer et je n’avais plus aucune excuse. Je me suis donc documentée, j’ai regardé l’excellent cours de Sandra Betzina sur Craftsy sur le sujet et je me suis lancée. Vous n’allez jamais me croire mais finalement, coudre de la soie, c’est facile.

  1. Commencez par réunir fournitures et matériels
  • Piquer

Le vrai secret pour coudre de la soie c’est d’avoir les bons outils. Commençons par ce qui va vous servir à piquer : aiguilles et épingles.

Le crêpe de Chine existe en différentes épaisseurs mais celui-ci était aussi fin que fluide. J’ai choisi d’utiliser mes épingles « Entomology » de Merchant&Mills qui sont conçues pour ce genre de tissus. Choisissez n’importe quelles épingles « extra-fines » pour ne pas abimer les fibres de la soie lorsque vous l’épinglez.

Plus important encore, pensez à vos aiguilles machine. Des aiguilles universelles conviennent très bien pour la soie…tant qu’elles sont à la bonne taille. Dans le cas d’un tissu fluide et fin comme une mousseline ou un crêpe, sélectionnez une aiguille universelle 70 ou une aiguille microtex (sur les bons conseils de Mademoiselle Bli, dont le blog est tout jeune mais déjà génial!). J’insiste lourdement car si vous vous orientez sur vos aiguilles universelles 80 ou 90, vos aiguilles vont écarter à l’excès les fibres de votre tissu : vous pourrez vous acharner à modifier les réglages tension de votre machine, vos points seront irréguliers, le tissu risquera de se faire entraîner sous la plaque de couture et les coutures elles-mêmes pourront craquer rapidement….

Choisissez des aiguilles neuves (merci Natasha dans les commentaires): une aiguille émoussée risque aussi d’abimer la soie.

  • Le fil

Pensez  à prendre du fil de bonne qualité. Vous pouvez choisir un fil de coton (je n’avais que cela sous la main et cela a fait l’affaire…) mais l’idéal reste de choisir un fil de soie comme ceux proposés au Ver à soie (la photo ci-dessous présente les bobines de soie surfine idéales pour un crêpe de Chine comme celui qui nous occupe).

Merci à l’incontestable reine du Liberty et du Smock pour le conseil 😉

  • Entoiler

Passons maintenant à l’entoilage.

Pour l’entoilage, vous avez deux options. La plus classique est de choisir un organza de soie. L’organza est un tissu fin mais rigide. Il est utilisé par les couturiers traditionnels pour entoiler les cols, poignets, pattes de boutonnage des chemisiers en soie. Découper les pièces à entoiler dans l’organzaavec des marges de couture moins importantes que sur les pièces principales. Fixez les avec un point de bâti sur les pièces en tissu. Traitez ensuite le tissu et l’entoilage en organza comme une seule et même pièce.

À l’occasion d’une discussion instagram avec Carmen, nous nous avions regretté de ne pas connaître de thermocollant convenant à cette soie si fine et si vivante. Petit extrait de notre conversation :

(l’adresse citée par Carmen dans cet échange correspond à un article de Jen, la créatrice de Grainline sur la couture d’une chemise en soie : l’article est en anglais et certaines techniques utilisées sont différentes, mais c’est une mine d’informations!)

Et bien, miracle, j’ai trouvé! J’ai trouvé par le plus grand des hasards, cette espèce si rare de thermocollant qui convient à une soie fine comme mon crêpe. À l’occasion de ma visite chez Stragier, (en Wallonie à une trentaine de kilomètres de Bruxelles : il faut vraiment que je vous raconte cette visite…elle m’a enthousiasmée !), j’ai pu poser de nombreuses questions techniques à Nicolas, le dirigeant de l’entreprise. Incidemment, je lui ai parlé de l’entoilage de mon Liberty en soie et des tissus fins en général. Nicolas Stragier m’a alors expliqué qu’il existait des entoilages thermocollants qui convenaient et m’a spécifiquement recommandé l’entoilage « TR » dans sa version extra-fine, la « TR1 ». (Afin que je puisse comparer les rendus et les différents types d’entoilage thermocollant qu’ils avaient en boutique, Nicolas m’a très gentiment  offert des échantillons de  trois types d’entoilage différents mais tous d’excellente qualité: je reviendrai plus longuement sur ce sujet mais sachez que ma religion est faite…pour l’entoilage comme pour le reste, la qualité fait toute la différence et je pense commander systématiquement ce type d’entoilage tant j’ai été satisfaite de la différence! )

Je suis vraiment contente du résultat obtenu avec l’entoilage TR1 : le tissu n’a pas gondolé, l’entoilage a donné de la tenue à ma soie tout en ne la rigidifiant pas à outrance…bref c’est exactement ce que je cherchais!

  • Couper et reporter le patron sur le tissu

L’une des étapes les plus délicates dans la couture d’une pièce en soie est incontestablement celle de la coupe. Le tissu bouge, glisse, se déforme et il paraît impossible de couper les pièces dans le droit fil. Pourtant ce problème est très simple à résoudre. Il vous faudra pour cela du papier de soie, du scotch et de l’amidon en bombe.

Le papier de soie va servir à stabiliser votre tissu sur votre surface de coupe. Certes, du papier kraft aurait pu faire l’affaire mais vous allez être amené-e à couper en même temps dans le papier et le tissu…et comme vous ne voulez pas abimer vos beaux ciseaux de coupe, vous allez me promettre d’utiliser du papier de soie. Le papier de soie présente une structure proche de celle d’une étoffe, pas de risque donc d’abîmer le tranchant de vos ciseaux de coupe.

Pour reporter les marques sur l’envers du tissu, j’utilise un crayon à papier HB pas trop taillé : cela tient mieux que la craie.

  1. Préparer son tissu et le couper : comment procéder?
  • Empeser

À mes yeux, seule cette étape constitue un moment vraiment délicat dans la couture d’une pièce en soie.

Afin de stabiliser votre tissu, vous pouvez commencer par l’empeser, c’est-à-dire par utiliser de l’amidon pour le rigidifier temporairement. Là encore, deux techniques sont possibles :

Vous pouvez utiliser de la farine de maïs (de la Maïzena par exemple) : trempez une minute votre tissu dans une dilution de 125 grammes d’amidon pour 1 litre d’eau puis faites le sécher bien à plat.

Ou vous pouvez donner un petit coup de bombe d’amidon à repassage (type Fabulon) avant de commencer à coudre. Faites attention à avoir la main légère et ne laissez pas la bombe goutter sur votre soie…cela ferait d’horribles auréoles! Le tissu sera un peu moins rigide que dans la première option.

Dans les deux cas, rincez votre ouvrage terminé à l’eau claire pour bien enlever l’amidon et surtout n’utilisez pas un fer trop chaud qui ferait jaunir votre tissu amidonné.

  • Fixer les pièces du patron sur le tissu

Nous allons commencer par vérifier les bords de notre tissu. Si la laize du tissu a été découpée et non déchirée par le marchand au moment de la coupe, il y a de fortes chances pour que votre coupon ne constitue pas un rectangle parfait et que les bordures ne soient pas perpendiculaires au droit-fil. Afin de remédier à ce problème, vous allez déchirer les deux largeurs de votre tissu.

Faites une petite entaille dans votre tissu avec les ciseaux puis soufflez un bon coup : on déchire toujours perpendiculairement au droit fil. Vous pouvez voir sur la troisième photo ci-dessus que le côté déchiré de mon tissu suit naturellement laa bordure de la table tandis que l’autre côté (le côté découpé donc) n’est pas droit.

Une fois que vos deux largeurs de tissu sont droites et donc parallèles au droit fil, préparez votre espace de coupe. Installez une feuille de papier de soie sur la table.

 J’ai donné un (léger) coup de fer à mon papier de soie pour que les plis ne me gênent pas. Ensuite j’ai plié mon tissu en deux (toutes les lisières doivent se superposer parfaitement), j’ai épinglé les lisières entre elles et j’ai posé le tout sur mon papier de soie. Comme vous pouvez le voir sur les photos, je me sers des bords de la table pour vérifier que toutes mes bordures sont parfaitement alignées et que le droit fil de mon tissu ne bouge plus.

Enfin, j’ai scotché mon tissu et mon papier de soie à ma table le long des bordures.

Une fois ce travail fait, le pire est passé : le tissu ne bouge plus et il est très facile d’épingler les pièces de son patron sur le tissu et le papier de soie.

 Je coupe ensuite mon tissu et mon papier de soie ensemble (dans le cas d’une pièce en soie, vous allez être amené-e à réaliser des coutures anglaises : pensez à ajouter une marge de couture suffisante au moment de la coupe pour ne pas vous retrouver dans la panade plus tard!)

Et voilà, mes pièces sont prêtes, stables et ont gardé leur forme à la coupe!

Une fois ce travail fait, il ne vous reste plus qu’à entoiler vos pièces et vous voilà prêt-e à coudre! Dans le cas d’une chemise, n’oubliez pas de bien entoiler la patte de boutonnage : cette étape est très importante pour ne pas avoir de mauvaises surprises quand viendra le moment de coudre les boutonnières.

Pensez aussi à changer votre aiguille et à la remplacer par une aiguille 70.

C’est cette aiguille qui permettra à vos coutures d’être réussies et de réaliser des surpiqûres décoratives sans crainte…

  1. Coudre de la soie : une histoire de finitions

Autant vous le dire tout de suite, à votre place, je rangerais ma surjeteuse au placard ce coup ci. Pour avoir un joli vêtement bien fini, le dieu de la soie vous impose de :

  • faire des coutures anglaises

Allons, courage, cela ne prend pas tant de temps que cela et c’est une technique simple et élégante. Vous pouvez envisager ce type de finitions pour les coutures de côté et des manches. Évitez en revanche de le faire pour des emmanchures.

Voici un petit rappel du modus operandi pour réaliser ce que nos amis d’outre-manche appellent des french seams. Au lieu des 1cm de marge de couture recommandés pour une couture normale, j’ai ajouté 1,5cm de marge là où je prévoyais des coutures anglaises.

Je commence par coudre mes deux pièces ensemble envers contre envers (et non pas endroit contre endroit) avec des marges de couture comprises entre 0,6 et 0,7mm.

Ensuite, je prends soin de recouper mes marges de couture à 0,2 ou 03 mm : cela permettra de réaliser ma seconde couture sans être embêtée par le tissu qui s’effiloche.

Je presse ensuite mes coutures endroits contre endroit.

Je réalise la seconde couture endroit contre endroit avec des marges à 0,7mm en enfermant ma première couture à l’intérieur de la seconde. Et voilà! Fastoche, non?

  • Poser du biais sur les emmanchures

Les courbes des emmanchures se prêtent mal à la réalisation de coutures anglaises. Je n’ai donc pas perdu un centimètre de mon Liberty de soie et j’ai coupé dans le biais de mes chutes des bandes afin de ganser mes coutures d’emmanchure.

  • prendre soin de vos boutonnières

L’étape des boutonnières est toujours angoissante : j’ai beau avoir à mon actif une bonne vingtaine de chemises ( et donc presque 250 boutonnières!), je frémis quelle que soit la matière. Alors de la soie! En me jetant à l’eau, j’étais vraiment persuadée que j’allais ruiner 6 heures de travail en trente secondes. Et pourtant, je trouve que mes boutonnières sont parmi les plus réussies que j’ai jamais faites.

Je pense que cela s’explique par : la qualité de l’entoilage de la patte de boutonnage, le fait que j’avais une aiguille adaptée à mon tissu et…mon scotch. Je scotche toujours l’empiècement de mes boutonnières. Cette astuce évite que le tissu soit entraîné par le fil sous la plaque de couture. Vous pouvez aussi envisager de fixer un peu d’entoilage supplémentaire à l’endroit où vous allez placer votre boutonnière. Dans le cas du scotch comme de l’entoilage, il suffit ensuite d’arracher l’excédent.

  • et enfin…faire un ourlet invisible à la main

À la fin d’un projet…j’ai souvent envie d’accélérer la cadence et d’en terminer une bonne fois pour toute. Il est évidemment préférable de faire l’inverse, surtout quand on coud une jolie soie. Adieu donc l’ourlet machine!

Étourdie comme je suis, j’ai oublié de prendre des photos de cette étape et je peux que vous montrer ce que donne le résultat final.

Pour faire mon ourlet étroit en courbe, j’ai suivi le tutoriel vidéo réalisé par Pauline Alice à l’occasion de son pas-à-pas pour la blouse Carme. Une seule étape diffère, la dernière : au lieu de faire la couture de l’ourlet à la machine, il faut procéder avec un point invisible à la main.

Voici ce que cela donne sur l’envers :

Et sur l’endroit (vous avez vu ? c’est magique, on ne voit vraiment rien!)

Et voilà! Je vais continuer sur ma lancée et rédiger dans la foulée le billet présentant la chemise Aime comme Madame dans cette merveilleuse soie Liberty. A très vite donc.

MAJ : merci beaucoup pour tous vos commentaires! Comme je n’ai pas forcément la disponibilité pour éditer l’article en temps réel, j’invite tout-e-s les nouvelles lectrices et lecteurs à aller lire les commentaires. Vous allez y trouver beaucoup d’astuces, de références (notamment l’excellent livre de Christelle Beneytout sur les machines à coudre) qui complètent, précisent ou rectifient cet article pour mon plus grand bonheur!

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